Archive for March 2012

Sarah Jones answers:

Portion control is paramount. You must restrict her calorie intake. EVO is very high in calories, one of the top 3 highest calorie dry foods out there. She’s going to have increased hunger and thirst on steroids, no matter if you feed her more or not. She cannot get treats or more dog food just because she’s hungry, begging or demanding food.

While speaking of steroids, have you discussed the use of NON-steroidal anti-inflammatories with your vet? Long term use of corticosteroids is damaging to the liver and the adrenal glands. We can induce liver disease and Cushing’s disease (decreased adrenal secretion of cortisol) by administering prednisone or prednisolone.

A maltese can safely be on Rimadyl 25 mg daily or a 15# dose of Metacam daily. These pose much less risk to the liver, slight potential risk to renal function over long term use, and rare GI side effects, compared to the hunger, thirst, urination, liver, and adrenal side effects of steroids.

With IVDD, intervertebral disc disease, the more excess weight carried the more pain she will experience in her back and neck. She may have arthritis in her stifles and elbows by now also, with such sudden extreme weight gain. An excess of 4 lbs. To a maltese her size is at least 30% overweight, which is obesity. She is also at risk for diabetes mellitus.

Decrease her calorie intake to approximately 250 kcals. This would be best as canned, or meat-source protein added to canned or dry. A 1/5 cup of the EVO you already have, or a 3 oz can, or 1/2 of 6 oz can, or 1/4 of 13 oz can, added to 2-3 oz. Of lean chicken, beef, or turkey, fed twice daily. Do not freely feed her. Do not give her treats. Emphasize her pain and risk to her health when you are requesting your family adhere to her strict diet and calorie intake.

You do not want to exercise her excessively. Short activity periods, multiple times daily, is effective activity. 15 minutes of steady paced walking 4-5 times daily will increase her mobility and joint lubrication without overburdening and stressing any arthritis or intervertebral swelling/nerve impingement. Underwater treadmill therapy at a rehabilitative clinic would greatly benefit her overall body condition also.

Omega 3 fatty acids are beneficial to her joints, but not her vertebra. It can only help and not harm to add high concentration omega fatty acids to her diet, in the form of fish oil or a combo of fish and flax/borage oils. Gelcap form, consisting of at least 100 mg DHA and 125 mg EPA is beneficial to cellular regeneration and anti-inflammation, thus joints, heart, skin, and immunity improve.

But, ideal body condition is the most important factor for back, neck, or joint pain. Losing weight is more beneficial and helpful to her than any steroid or NSAID. Track her weight loss by going to the vet office every 3-4 weeks, and ask them to weigh her on the small/cat scale. Go now, then again periodically and adjust her diet if her weight loss trend plateaus or slows.

Carrots, rice cakes, apples, green beans and low calorie dog treats (kcal listed as 3-5 kcal/treat) can be given while working on weight loss, but be careful to ensure she doesn’t ingest excess carbohydrates. Less than 25% (less than 1/5 cup) of her diet should consist of the non-meat, non-dog food treats/additions. Her GI tract can develop excess carb digesting enzymes (amylase, sucrase) and deficient protein and fat digesting enzymes (protease, lipase) when you feed too many carbs; which can lead to her inability to digest protein and fat, and GI imbalance (vomit, diarrhea).

Sarah Jones answers:

Collie, and Shetland Sheepdog-out of those choices you have provided.

By Collie I presume you mean the Lassie more commonly refered to as Rough coated collie, there also the smooth coat variety, but oddly enough the smooth coat is aparently more energy. Rough collies are very relaxed, as long as you provide them with the appropiate basic obedience, soclialisation and regular exercise. If you referening to the Border Collie stay away-there just as supper energetic as the Australian Shepherd if not more energetic, although the Aussie Shepherd does have a stop button, Border Collie do not.!

Miniature Australian Shepherd is NOT a purebred dog, it is a mix of numerous other small dogs! The Miniature Australian Shepherd, North American Shepherd, North American Miniature Australian Shepherd, and/or Toy Australian Shepherd breeds are not recognized as a variety of Australian Shepherd by ASCA. The club considers such dogs to be a distinct and separate breed and will not accept them into its registry.http://www.asca.org/

Sarah Jones answers:

Just make sure you meet and spend time with the dog. Bring your dog to the shelter with you to make sure that they get along well. The people at the shelter should know whether the dog is good with other animals, children, strangers, etc.
Ask lots of questions. Most (all I’ve dealt with) shelters vet check, vaccinate and spay/neuter all their dogs before they are adopted out. It is highly unlikely that you would get a sick animal from a shelter, much more likely if you were adopting from a back yard breeder or “free to good home” ad.
Some shelter dogs do have issues, some are fearful, others haven’t been trained as many shelter dogs come in as strays and have never lived in homes before. These dogs are a little more difficult, but with time, patience and training, end up being wonderful pets.
The staff at the shelter will be able to tell you which dogs are trained and which will need a little more work.
Good luck

Sarah Jones answers:

Tyson does look like a boxer cross–crossed with what I haven’t a clue.

Midnight–well, that wasn’t the best picture of him. A little dark and the glowing eyes thing looked a wee bit demonic:)

Symone looks like she is part black-and-tan coonhound.

Sarah Jones answers:

With few exceptions, all dogs bark. Barking is a natural behaviour and it is a way of communicating. While the messages can range from loneliness to hunger or playfulness, most often barking is used as an alarm or alert signal that indicates to the other pack members that a stranger or intruder is approaching

Most people have a feeling of security and comfort knowing their dogs are “on the job”. Some people even encourage their dogs to bark and growl when the doorbell rings or someone knocks. They feel this is acceptable behaviour, however, when the dogs become uncontrollable, with barking that is excessive, they become a nuisance. Life is miserable for neighbours who must listen day after day to barking dogs.
Excessive barking often begins in puppy-hood, when the pup who is not yet house-trained is unwisely shut behind closed doors. Improper confinement will definitely cause a barking problem, and dogs that are tied or tethered will eventually become frustrated and begin to bark to communicate their displeasure. We must always remember that dogs are pack animals. It is not natural or normal for them to be alone, however, millions of dogs must learn to cope confidently while members of the family go out daily to work.

Chewing, uncontrolled barking, house-training problems and destructive behaviour have put many dogs out of their homes, and all of this could be avoided if we simply communicated more effectively with our canine companions. They are part of a pack or family, similar in behaviour to their ancestors, the wolves. Wolves travel, hunt, sleep and eat in a group environment, therefore, we must modify this instinct. We must, in our human packs, make our dogs feel comfortable and secure about being alone in the “den” while the other pack members are away.

Because most barking takes place when you are away from home, you have no choice but to believe your neighbours when they complain.

Barking is actually quite common and not that difficult to rectify. Let us consider the encouraging owner who inadvertently praises and teaches his or her dog that its barking is the greatest thing, which makes the dog feel its owner is happy and pleased when he barks.

The easiest way to teach the dog to bark is command him to “speak”. So while the dog is barking at the door, the owner may use the command word “speak”. The dog will associate barking behaviour with this word. Now, your golden moment has arrived. You are going to teach your dog the word “quiet”, or “enough” or “shush” (your choice!). We do not teach the word “No”, because “No” means “Never, ever do that – ever”.

When you command your dog to be “Quiet” and he keeps barking, you will have to teach him the meaning of the word “Quiet”. Hitting your dog or using other physical measure or mechanical or electronic aids are unkind and unnecessary. You may hold your dog’s muzzle closed (gently and kindly), or you may have to use a water pistol. Another method is to make a sudden sharp sound (rattle a pop can with some coins in it, or bang on a pot) to divert your dog’s attention from barking. When your dog has ceased to bark for at least three to five seconds, praise him in a quiet, calm voice, perhaps saying, “Good, quiet. Good!”. Avoid stroking, patting and hugging your dog at this point, as you may over-excite him again, and he may miss the point of the whole exercise.

Before you leave your dog alone, remember the following points:

Provide adequate exercise.

Leave the radio or television on.

Provide your dog with proper chewing material – rawhide, nylabones and Kong toys stuffed with yummy stuff are good (beware of using real animal bones – they can splinter).

Crate train your dog.

Unplug your phone.

Place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on your door. This may prevent trades people from knocking or ringing the bell, which would set your dog off on a barking cycle.

Shut the shades or drapes so your dog cannot see outside.

Make your departures calm. Tone things down and be matter of fact. Over-emotional, guilt-ridden departures (and entrances) put your dog in a state of anxiety.